Fashion Police Designer Ayesha Rao on the emerging fashion scene: ‘Indian designers are no longer just contributing to global fashion’ – Firstpost

Not long ago, India was ranked as a source of craft, labour, inspiration but rarely as a voice. That dynamic is clearly changing. Ayesha Rao’s latest collection, Inter-Hana, which was showcased at Lakme Fashion Week 2026 this March. The collection reflects a new chapter for the brand, focusing on authorship, home-made craftsmanship and an evolving creative language. Inspired by a continuum of everyday and celebratory moments, it presents a wardrobe that is both expressive and effortlessly versatile.

Influenced by Japanese artist Fumi Imamura, the collection reinterprets botanical forms through abstraction, where florals dissolve into geometry and traditional motifs are reimagined through a contemporary lens.

Edited excerpts from the interview:

Where do you see India in the world fashion spectrum?

Today, Indian designers are no longer just contributing to global fashion; We are shaping its language on our terms. Growing confidence in how we present ourselves. Previously, there was a tendency to dilute or “translate” Indianness for a global audience. Now, there has been a conscious move towards adopting it in our photographs, our use of colors and the way we tell stories. And interestingly, the global response to this authenticity has been much stronger than anything adapted.

Also, the Indian consumer has evolved, they are informed, exposed and deeply savvy. This is inspiring brands to move forward not only creatively, but also in quality and experience, making us ready for the global stage. I believe that India has a distinct identity in the world fashion system today. With strong roots and true interpretation, we are creating work that feels both deeply connected and globally relevant, moving away from fleeting trends towards pieces that have value, depth and narrative. Indian fashion offers something rare, an authentic blend of craft, culture and modernity, that is moving towards the global luxury conversation.

What was the thought process behind bringing together the entire collection at this year’s Lakme Fashion Week XFDCI?

starting point for inter hana The idea was to combine Aisha Rao’s maximalist language with the spirit of Japanese subtlety, finding a balance where both could co-exist beautifully.

Fumei Imamura’s abstract explanation of botanical science became the anchor. While nature is always a starting point for us, it was her fluid, intuitive way of translating that shaped the collection. Flowers weren’t treated literally, they evolved into abstract forms, moving between fumi-inspired motifs and reinterpreted paisley in embroideries and prints.

This season also marked a shift towards stronger authorship. We focused on developing surfaces in-house – creating meshes with a distinctive appearance and exploring layered texture manipulations to bring depth and finesse. The palette was designed to be seamless, summer-friendly yet effortlessly monsoon and occasion wear, with shades that feel both fresh and grounded.

At its core, the collection is based on craft and intention, but expressed through romantic undertones and a certain softness. Each element was carefully considered, and through many rounds of sampling and experimentation, we arrived at a balance that ultimately gave the collection the shape it has today.

What do you think about contemporary Indian formal wear?

Traditionally, formal wear was very codified, tied to specific silhouettes, textiles and ways of dressing. But today that harshness is decreasing. There is a clear shift towards individuality, where the wearer interprets the occasion through their own lens.

As a brand, we have always designed for the man who embraces his sense of self and isn’t afraid to experiment. Classic silhouettes are no longer rigid; They are being reimagined in more contemporary narratives. in our latest inter hana For example, in the collection, we have explored sarees with fishtail silhouettes, scrunchies Pallasand mesh integration. The essence of the saree remains intact, but it is expressed in a way that feels more current and effortless in terms of how one wants to dress today.

For me, the contemporary Indian opportunity lies in adaptability. It should move seamlessly with the wearer through moments, moods and settings, while also capturing the depth and richness of the craft. That balance is what keeps it relevant, and more importantly, it ensures that the craft continues to evolve and endure.

Your thoughts on clothing as an experience rather than an object?

For me,
Couture has never been just about the final garment, It’s about everything that leads up to it. It starts with conversation: understanding the person, her sensitivity, her comfort and how she wants to feel. From there, it becomes a process of translating something abstract into something tangible through fabric, form, and craft. Every step of this journey makes it fascinating. Storytelling, depth and intention are as important as the results.

There is a certain intimacy even in clothing — The fitting, the iterations, the time invested. It creates a relationship between the wearer and the object, so by the end of it, it feels deeply personal rather than transactional. For us, it’s important that this sense of experience extends beyond the apparel. Whether it’s on the retail front or within the craft process, each touchpoint is designed to feel cohesive and intense. For example, our stores are an extension of our design language, as soon as you walk in, you recognize it as the Ayesha Rao experience.

Ultimately, couture is about creating something that is not only worn, but felt where the process, the place, and the garment all come together to create a unique, lasting experience.

Fashion vs Style – What’s your opinion?

I don’t really see fashion and style as opposites, to me, they’re just two narratives of the same story.

Fashion is a big conversation, shaped by time, culture and collective mood. It creates an environment and opens up possibilities. Style is what happens when you embrace it and make it your own. It’s spontaneous, personal and based on how you want to express yourself.

At Ayesha Rao, we’ve always been interested in that intersection. Our pieces are expressive, layered and statement-driven, but they are designed to be interpreted by the wearer in their own way. The idea is never to dictate how something should be worn, but to offer a language that one can shape for oneself.

I think today people are connecting with fashion more clearly. They are not following the trends as they are, rather they are editing, adapting and recontextualizing them to fit their own narrative. So, it’s never really fashion vs style. Fashion gives you language, but style is what makes it personal and adds meaning to it.